The ABC of ingredients by Jo de Vivre

Ingredients in alphabetical order

Skincare is all about the right combination of products and ingredients, especially if you're targeting a specific skin concern. But if you're not an expert, it's not always clear what works, what's best to avoid, or what works well together.

This overview shows all ingredients in alphabetical order. For each ingredient, you'll find its content, benefits, skin type, best time to use, and compatibility with other ingredients. At the bottom of the page, you'll find an additional overview for each skin concern: Vitamin Boost & Antioxidants, Glow & Brightening, Hydration & Barrier Repair, Firming & Anti-Aging, and Exfoliation. This way, you can see at a glance which ingredients make the difference for your skin.

AHA / BHA – For smooth, fresh skin
AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid exfoliate the upper layer of skin and contribute to a more even complexion. They are often used for dull skin, superficial pigment spots, and fine lines. BHAs, such as salicylic acid, work deeper in the pores and are effective for oily or blemished skin. Both acids make the skin more sensitive to sunlight, so they are preferably used in the evening and always in combination with SPF during the day.

Antioxidants – Protection against external stress
Antioxidants are substances that help protect the skin from free radicals. These are caused by factors such as UV radiation, air pollution, and stress, and can contribute to skin aging and a dull complexion. Antioxidants support the skin's natural defense mechanisms and help maintain its balance. In skincare, antioxidants are often derived from plant extracts such as ginseng, green tea, resveratrol, red bean, and artemisia. They are used to support skin recovery, maintain healthy skin texture, and protect against daily environmental influences. Antioxidants are suitable for daily use and are often combined with moisturizing and soothing ingredients.

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract – For calm, soothed skin
Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract is a plant extract from mugwort leaves. It helps soothe the skin and is often used for sensitive or imbalanced skin.

Bakuchiol – For firmer skin with fewer lines
Bakuchiol is a plant-based active ingredient that works similarly to retinol, but is gentler on the skin. It helps improve skin texture and elasticity, and reduces fine lines. Bakuchiol is suitable for use morning and evening and can be safely combined with other active ingredients, such as niacinamide and vitamin C.

Beta-Glucan – For soothed, resilient skin
Beta-glucan helps retain moisture and supports the skin barrier's natural healing process. It's often used for sensitive, dry, or irritated skin. You can use it morning and evening, possibly in combination with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid or panthenol.

Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract – For skin barrier support
This kale leaf extract is rich in antioxidants and vitamins. It helps protect the skin from environmental influences and supports overall skin health.

Centella Asiatica – For a skin that calms down
Centella Asiatica is a plant extract with soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It's often used for sensitive, irritated, or damaged skin and contributes to skin regeneration. You can use it both morning and evening, possibly in combination with ceramides, panthenol, or niacinamide.

Ceramides – For a strong and supple skin barrier
Ceramides are lipids naturally occurring in the skin. They help retain moisture and protect against environmental influences. Ceramides are suitable for all skin types and are particularly used for dry, sensitive, or damaged skin. Daily use in the morning and evening is recommended, often in combination with ingredients like hyaluronic acid or panthenol.

Collagen / Vegan Collagen – For a fuller, smoother skin
Collagen is a naturally occurring protein that provides skin firmness and elasticity. Skincare products often use collagen or vegan collagen to hydrate the skin and support its structure. The molecules are generally too large to penetrate deeply, but they can soften the skin's surface. This ingredient is suitable for daily use, both morning and evening, and combines well with peptides and antioxidants.

Enzymes / Fermentations – For a soft, refined skin texture
Enzymes and fermented extracts have a mild exfoliating effect and help remove dead skin cells. They are often used in cleansers and masks and can improve the absorption of other active ingredients. These active ingredients are suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin, and are best used in the evening, possibly in combination with moisturizing ingredients.

Ginseng extract – For strong, vital skin
Ginseng extract is a plant extract from the ginseng root that is rich in antioxidants. It helps protect the skin from external stress and promotes a healthy, energetic appearance.

Green Tangerine – For an even, radiant complexion
Green Tangerine is rich in natural vitamin C and is often used to brighten skin and even out skin tone. It helps reduce the appearance of superficial age spots. Use preferably in the morning and always combine with SPF. Green Tangerine works well with niacinamide and tranexamic acid.

Green Tea Extract – For a calm, balanced skin
Green tea extract is an antioxidant that helps neutralize free radicals and soothe the skin. It's often used for redness and is suitable for sensitive or acne-prone skin. It can be used daily, morning and evening. It combines well with antioxidants, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid.

Guaiazulene – For a soothed, restored skin
Guaiazulene has a calming effect and supports the repair of the skin barrier. It helps reduce redness and is ideal for sensitive or irritated skin. It also naturally gives products a blue color.

Heartleaf / Houttuynia Cordata – For a clean, calm skin
Heartleaf is a plant extract known for its anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating properties. It is often used for sensitive, oily, or acne-prone skin. This ingredient is suitable for daily use, morning and evening, and can be combined with centella asiatica or panthenol.

Hyaluronic Acid (Low Molecular Weight) – For deep, long-lasting hydration
Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid penetrates the skin's layers more effectively and helps retain moisture. This results in plumper, supple skin. It's suitable for daily use on all skin types and works best on slightly damp skin, followed by a liner. It combines well with almost all other ingredients.

Lactic Acid / Glycolic Acid – For a smoother, more even skin
Lactic acid and glycolic acid are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) that exfoliate the upper layer of skin. They help improve skin texture and fade pigment spots. Use these acids preferably in the evening and always combine them with sunscreen during the day. Not recommended in combination with retinol or vitamin C if your skin is sensitive.

Mung Bean Extract – For a cleansed, soothed skin
Mung bean extract is a plant-based ingredient that gently cleanses and has antibacterial properties. It is suitable for sensitive or blemished skin and is often used in cleansers or soothing masks. It can be used daily, both morning and evening. It combines well with heartleaf and centella.

Niacinamide – For a smoother, stronger skin
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) helps even out skin tone, minimizes pores, and strengthens the skin barrier. It is suitable for almost all skin types, including those with redness or blemishes. This ingredient can be used morning and evening and combines well with tranexamic acid, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid.

Panthenol – For a calm, hydrated skin
Panthenol (vitamin B5) attracts moisture and helps restore the skin barrier. It is often used for dry, sensitive, or irritated skin. Suitable for daily use morning and evening, it combines well with ceramides, centella, and beta-glucan.

PDRN (Polydeoxyribonucleotide) – For skin renewal and repair
PDRN is an active ingredient that supports cell renewal and promotes the skin's natural healing process. It's often used for aging skin or skin in need of extra regeneration. It's usually used in the evening and combines well with peptides and collagen.

Peptides – For firmer, smoother skin
Peptides are amino acid chains that signal the skin to produce collagen. They help improve skin elasticity and reduce fine lines. Peptides are suitable for daily use, both morning and evening, and combine well with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides.

Persea Gratissima Avocado Fruit Extract – For skin nourishment and comfort
Avocado fruit extract is rich in fatty acids and helps keep skin supple and comfortable. It supports moisture balance and is especially suitable for dry or tight skin.

Propolis – For nourishment and protection of the skin
Propolis is a bee product with antioxidant and antibacterial properties. It supports skin regeneration and is often used for dry, sensitive, or irritated skin. Propolis can be used daily and combines well with beta-glucan, ceramides, or panthenol.

Red Bean Extract – For a fresh, balanced skin
Red Bean Extract is a plant extract from red azuki beans. It helps absorb excess sebum and promotes a fresh, matte complexion.

Resveratrol – For protection against skin aging
Resveratrol is a powerful antioxidant that helps protect the skin from free radicals and external stressors. It supports the maintenance of healthy skin structure and is often used to treat skin aging and a dull complexion.

Rose water – For a fresh, soothed skin
Rose water has a refreshing and soothing effect. It helps balance the skin and is often used in toners and eye care products. Rose water is suitable for daily use, morning and evening, and combines well with hyaluronic acid, centella, and panthenol.

Snail Mucin – For recovery and hydration
Snail mucin (snail mucus filtrate) supports skin regeneration and hydration. It contains a blend of enzymes, hyaluronic acid, and peptides and is often used for scars and pigmentation spots. This ingredient is typically used at night and combines well with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and peptides.

Tea Tree Leaf Water – For a clear, calm skin
Tea Tree Leaf Water is a distilled plant water extracted from tea tree leaves. Tea Tree Leaf Water helps keep skin fresh and balanced. It has purifying properties and is milder than tea tree oil, making it suitable for daily use on blemished or sensitive skin.

Tranexamic acid (TXA) – For reducing pigment spots
Tranexamic acid helps reduce pigmentation and is often used for hyperpigmentation or melasma. It is suitable for sensitive skin and can be used morning or evening, always in combination with SPF during the day. It combines well with niacinamide and vitamin C.

Vitamin C – For an even, radiant skin
Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps even out skin tone and reduce age spots. It supports collagen production and protects against free radicals. Use vitamin C preferably in the morning, always in combination with sunscreen. It combines well with niacinamide, ferulic acid, and tranexamic acid.

Vitamin Boost & Antioxidants

  • Vitamin C (including in ANUA Green Lemon Vita C Serum, Medicube Deep Vita C products, Goodal Eye Patches)
  • Green Tea Extract (NEOGEN Bio-Peel, soothing and antioxidant)
  • Propolis
    (CNP Lipcerin)
  • Bakuchiol
    (SKIN1004 Eye Cream)
  • Niacinamide
    (Anua Niacinamide TXA 4 Serum)
  • Tranexamic acid
    (TXA)

Glow & Brighten

  • Mung bean extract (Beplain)
  • Heartleaf / Houttuynia Cordata (Anua Toner)
  • Green Tangerine (Goodal eye patches)
  • Rosewater (Heimish Eye Patch)

Hydration & Barrier Repair

  • Hydration & Barrier Repair
  • Hyaluronic acid (found in several Torriden products, SKIN1004 Hyalu-Cica Sun Serum)
  • Ceramides (AESTURA Atobarrier Cream,
    Cera-nol Toner Pads – barrier repair)
  • Panthenol (vitamin B5) (Purito Bamboo Cream)
  • Centella Asiatica (SKIN1004 line)
  • Beta-Glucan
  • Snail Mucin ( COSRX Advanced Snail Hydrogel Eye Patch)

Firming & Anti-aging

  • Collagen / Vegan Collagen (Medicube Pink Collagen products, AXIS-Y Eye Serum, Biodance Mask)
  • PDRN (Polydeoxyribonucleotide) (Medicube Series, Anua Serum)
  • Peptides (often in anti-aging masks & eye creams)

Exfoliation

  • AHA/BHA (ROUND LAB 1025 Dokdo Toner, NEOGEN Bio-Peel)
  • Lactic Acid / Glycolic Acid (possibly in exfoliating toners or pads)
  • Enzymes / Fermentations (in some cleaners or sheet masks)